Dodge Ram Vent Selector Not Working — Plug N Play That Juice Ball
Shop O'Reilly Auto Parts for a replacement climate control module for your Dodge Ram, as well as blend door or vent door actuators, blower motor resistors, and more to make your repairs and keep your truck comfortable. Dodge ram vent selector not working group. Do not remove the bolts at this time. Not removing the entire heater box precludes the installer's ability to inspect the condition of the A/C evaporator, the blend doors, vacuum lines and to clean debris that has collected over the past 15 to 23 years, depending on your Second Generation truck's year model. Coolant supply/return hoses are to be removed. In all, it is a job definitely worth doing, just not one I would want to do again anytime soon.
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A/C oil added to the system. Open the glove box and press "in" toward the center on each side and lift the glove box out of the dash assembly. When its on high and on the defrosters it blows ok but not real hard but when you switch to the dash vents it barely blows out of the four vents. Blower doesn't blow very well. The new Garrett turbochargers are looped through the heater core and that raised some concerns as to the amount of coolant they were receiving across the bearings. I also inspected the blend doors for wear and tear and proper operation.
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Article originally published in Turbo Diesel Register, Issue 96. Engine Side of the Firewall. I installed the new A/C evaporator. Is there a more powerful blower motor I could swap in? Toyota vent selector not working. I did some searching and found no answer so here goes. The balance of this winter is going to be much more comfortable. The first one has a ground wire attached and has two nuts. Drop the steering column down and rest it on the seat.
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What I suggest is this. Dodge ram 1500 vent selector not working. Heat blows from vents but won't blow from floor when put on floor mode. Bless YouTube for a plethora of "coming attractions" showing the steps to get the job accomplished. Reassemble the upper and lower half, making sure the blend doors are in their respective mounting holes and move freely. I measured the inlet and outlet temperatures on both turbochargers and across the heater core to confirm coolant flow…all good!
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Heater core installed. Remove one of the caps and install approximately two ounces of A/C oil. His caption stated, "My toes went numb about an hour ago. " Had I not pulled the heater box and disassembled it, I would have not found the pine needles blocking the air flow and I would not have received the full benefit of the labor-intensive repair. Once the thermostat had opened, I began to take temperature readings. Air Vent Selector Not Working?: the Blower Control Works Fine but. I put a new blower in last winter from checker auto parts cause my other one squealed and I seem to remember it working good when I put the new one in. A/C evaporator installed. I started with the interior nuts, then secured the four on the engine side of the firewall. Remove the triangular shaped panels below the dash on both the driver and passenger's side, exposing the 13 mm bolts that hold the dash assembly on each side. Two are behind the ECU, one holds the AC condenser bracket and the other is located above the rear valve cover.
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Electrical connections and cables are removed. Sunday, January 22nd, 2023 AT 8:40 PM. And, the old tubes penetrating the firewall are used as part of this scheme. As I mentioned earlier, note the pine needles blocking airflow. Another uses the OEM core, but recommends cutting the supply and return tubes and connecting them to the old supply and return tubes, using short pieces of heater hose and four clamps. It could be stuck between the settings. Disconnect the vacuum line next to the A/C lines. Separate the upper and lower half of the heater box assembly and remove the A/C evaporator. Failure is indicated by an inability to choose between defrost and floor. Repositioning the dash assembly worked best for me with two pairs of hands. I did notice this summer when I ran the A/C that it didn't blow overly hard but now that its real cold out I know its not blowing hard enough. Since there is no pressure in the system, the low-pressure switch will prevent the A/C compressor from switching on. Be sure to put a drain pan under the truck to catch the engine coolant. Now we're making progress, removing the dash-to-cowl screws.
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I finished by attaching the various trim panels. Just for grins, it is one of those jobs that will put you upside down, improve your contortionist skill set, and remove the skin from your knuckles and forearms. Disconnect the blend door cable. If you do not have the ability to refill the refrigerant you can have the local shop do it later. Finally I measured the discharge air temperature with the heat on maximum, 134°! The bad news was he still had four hours to go.
Remove the two nuts and two bolts that secure the center of the dash assembly to the SRS bracket. If they are good, then with it plugged in, see if it reacts when you change the air flow direction. It's what the actuator slides into that moves the blend door. You will first need to evacuate the 134 from the system (or you can have a shop do it for you). This can affect the comfort of your cabin, and may also affect the control of your blower motor or activation of the A/C compressor. The heater box's design now contains leaking fluids. )
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